Climbing Washington’s Mount Adams
When my alarm went off at 12:30 AM, I sat up and said, “This is crazy.” And it is kind of crazy. What would drive a person to sleep in the back of their vehicle, wake up in the middle of the night, strap on a heavy pack, and head out into the cold night?
We had 12 miles ahead of us and a total of 7000 feet elevation gain to end at an elevation of 12,281 feet at the summit of Mount Adams, Washington’s second highest peak. In our packs we had our mountaineering boots, crampons, an ice axe, a helmet, extra layers, water, and too much packaged food. On the mountain, the exertion and high elevation would suppress our appetites, but we knew our bodies needed fuel.
Mount Adams stats from our GPS route
Mileage 12.6
Elevation gain 6620
Starting at the South Climb Trailhead, we had nothing but the starlight and the circle of light from our headlamps to light the way. The first few miles were a steady uphill approach with a limited field of vision. To our left, the steep scree slope disappeared into a void. To our right, the imposing silhouette of the mountain against a heaven full of stars.
At around three miles in, there was no longer any way to avoid traveling on the glacier, so we sat with a couple other likeminded folks to strap on our mountaineering boots and crampons.
Stoke was high as one guy let out a random yelp. It’s go time.
I started to shiver as our bodies cooled down, and I looked around for the sun. To the east, I could see a faint glow starting to build on the horizon. The snow was hard and icy, and the crampons bit hard into the glacier as we started up.
The darkness of the sky gradually gave way to layers of pink and blue. Behind us, Mount Hood was poking up above a layer of clouds, and it felt like we had reached heaven.
The climb up to Lunch Counter was steady, and I kept those around me informed of our current elevation and distance to our next waypoint, though the words seemed to come out slurred because my lips were half frozen. As we crested the next hill, a thin layer of sunlight washed over us as the next push to the false summit came into full view.
Holy crap, we have to go up that?!?!
From the Lunch Counter to Pikers Peak was probably the most difficult climb I have ever done in my life. I got out my ice axe for insurance as we started up the steeply angled slope. Luckily, those who had gone before us had made steps in the snow that we followed closely. The wind held mostly steady, but occasionally sent a gust that knocked us slightly off balance. Finding secure footing was key. The steep incline demanded a slow and steady pace with regular stops to let our hearts slow down. Progress was slow, so I started to count my steps to pass the time.
I would go 30 before taking a breather and 100 before looking to see how much farther to the next crest. My cousin and I were climbing this beast together, but this part was very much an individual effort as our variations in pace slowly spread us apart. Nearing Pikers Peak, we started to see some climbers who were already on their way down, and they encouraged us onward with their big, satisfied grins.
At the false summit near Pikers Peak, the true summit of Mount Adams came into view. Even though you know it’s coming, nothing really prepares you for that moment.
After all the effort we had just expended, it looked so far and so high and so hard. We could see tiny switchbacks zigzagging up to a distant summit that was occasionally swept over by a misty, pink cloud. There was no going back though.
As one friendly fellow climber returned from the summit, he lifted up a plastic bag and asked, “Who wants to carry my poop?” It made us all chuckle and relieved a little of the tension we felt from the impending ascent. The wind was stronger up here, the air was colder and thinner, and we all sheltered together next to a rocky outcropping. Our friendly fellow climber gave us wise advice for the final push, and we dropped all unnecessary equipment before setting off for the summit.
Now there were lots of people returning from the summit, including some of those who had been with us on the climb up to Pikers, each one giving us a boost of encouragement along the way.
And then finally… after all the difficult steps, all the pounding heartbeats, all the heavy breaths and moments we wondered if we could do this… the top!!!
Suddenly we could see what the mountain had been obscuring all along – an unrivaled view of the king of Washington’s volcanoes, Mount Rainier. Around us, 360-degree views of verdant valleys, crystal lakes, neighboring peaks, sculpted glaciers, and low lying clouds with Hood, St Helens, Rainier, and even Jefferson stratovolcanoes jutting up into the sky. It was breathtaking and soul enlarging, and we sat atop the fire lookout to take it all in. After attempting to eat something, we headed over to the true summit of Mount Adams and put our shoes on the geological marker. We did this! We did it! And we kept that victory in our hearts the whole way down.
I don’t know if I ever stopped smiling, except maybe on that super steep glissade down from Pikers Peak to Lunch Counter. Even then, I probably was because it was exhilarating and scary all at once.
The first 3000 feet down went fast, but the last 4000 dragged on. The day was long, the adventure had been exhausting, and we really needed food, a shower, and a bed. Last night, I finally turned in at 10 PM, my body exhausted, my tummy satisfied, and my heart and mind full from another epic day in my adventure life.
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